Located within central Turkey, Elazıǧ has extremes of climate. Summers are hot and winters very cold. There is no nearby coastal microclimate to help balance out the extremes. The soil is red clay, decomposed granites and chalky clay.
Boǧazkere and Öküzgözü are the most widely grown grapes in this region.
I have chosen the winemaker, Kayra, for review, not least because their history and evolution is very interesting. Kayra was born out of the state owned Tekel in 2005. They became Kayra and were incorporated into the Mey Icki group which is now part of Diageo (after once being owned by British American Tobacco). Consultant and winemaker Daniel O’Donnell was brought in from his base in Napa to restructure the whole business. After getting to grips with what Diageo had taken over, he made radical changes and implemented a programme of modernisation. The original 7 wineries were scaled down to just 2. One being in Elazıǧ. O’Donnell admits that when he took over, some of the wine tasted like “shit in a bottle”, with some 16 million litres being either dumped or sold to Russia. A major overhaul of staffing was also implemented with many being fired.
Kayra today has around 50 wines on offer covering all levels from basic drinking to premium. Here are 4 I have chosen to review.
Red – Buzbağ Reserve
NOSE: Cassis, leather and spices with a hint of toast.
PALATE: Has a soft silky texture with red forest fruits and savoury notes on the palate moving to a long, lingering finish.
FOOD PAIRING: Really works well with heavy and richly sauced red meat dishes, grilled steak, roasted vegetable kebab and hard cheeses such as parmesan and aged cheddar.
SUMMARY: A good big wine made with Öküzgözü and Boğazkere grapes. Open an hour before serving to allow the balance between fruit and tannins to develop. Bottles can be sourced through merchants from £17 to £25.
Red – Kalecik Karası
NOSE: Vanilla and red cherry with spicy notes.
PALATE: A medium bodied wine that has a good balance between cherry and raspberry flavours with soft tannins.
FOOD PAIRING: Grilled, roasted or barbecued dark meats and game, meatballs, tomato sauced pastas and hard cheeses.
SUMMARY: A nice everyday wine that is reminiscent of Pinot Noir but made from the local Kalecik Karası grape. Nice on its own when just slightly chilled. Bottles are available from £12 to £16.
White – Buzbağ White
NOSE: Lemon zest, freshly squeezed grapefruit, hints of apricot and lychee.
PALATE: Refreshing and well balanced on the palate with crisp apple and pear flavours; gentle acidity with an underlying mineral freshness at the finish.
FOOD PAIRING: Shellfish, pasta with white sauce, grilled chicken and fish.
SUMMARY: Made with a blend of Buzbağ, Narince and Emir grapes. This distinctive wine can be enjoyed on its own as well and bought for £10 to £14.
Rosé – Kalecik Karası Blush
NOSE: Delicate notes of citrus, orange flower, pink grapefruit and vibrant ripe red fruits.
PALATE: The flavours of wild strawberry and raspberry are balanced with good acidity and a lively crisp finish. Drier than many blush style wines.
FOOD PAIRING: Sushi, summery salads, poached salmon and new potatoes, fresh fruit or soy stir fries. Also good with a Brie or a hard goat’s cheese.
SUMMARY: Made with the Kalecik Karası grape. This wine can be enjoyed for £15 to £20 per bottle.
