The region only produces around 3% of the country’s output. It is located in the centre of the Asian side of Turkey, where summers are hot and winters cold. The soil is predominantly pebbly clay loam. Only a few grape varieties do well here.
The varieties grown here are the indigenous Boǧazkere, Emir, Hasandede, Kalecik Karası, Öküzgözü, Papazkarası and the hardy Shiraz. Because of the climatic conditions, it is possible to make both rosé and sparkling wines.
I have chosen the Kavaklidere winery for review as they make a range which includes red, white, rosé and sparkling wines. They are the oldest and best known family run winery in Turkey. They operate vineyards in the Aegean region as well, with a combined 645 hectares under cultivation. The wine making operations are concentrated at their Ankara premises.
Red – Yakut
NOSE: Intense red fruits, damsons, sour red cherries and violets.
PALATE: Rich concentrated dark fruit flavours that are well balanced with ripe tannins and a pleasant smooth finish.
FOOD PAIRING: Cold red meats, salami and other deli-style meats, lasagna or spaghetti bolognese and the Turkish pizzas
SUMMARY: Made from a blend of Boğazkere, Carignan, Alicante Bouschet and Öküzgözü grapes. Not all (Carignan and Alicante) are grown in the region but are brought in from their Aegean vineyards. The result is a very distinctive red which merchants are offering from £10 to £15 a bottle.
White – Çankaya
NOSE: Citrus and white fruits
PALATE: Buttery with delicious intense fruit flavours and well balanced acidity.
FOOD PAIRING: Grilled fish, seafood salads, tomato sauce and fresh herb based pastas, grilled chicken and fresh cheeses.
SUMMARY: Made from a blend of Emir, Narince and Sultaniye. The latter gives the wine its richness, balancing the greater acidity found in the other grapes. It has won awards and can be bought for £10 to £15 a bottle.
Rosé – Lal
NOSE: Fresh red fruits with strawberry and raspberry notes.
PALATE: Big red fruit flavours well balanced with acidity delivering a wine that is not over sweet and has good body for a rosé.
FOOD PAIRING: Thai chicken curry, grilled fish or chicken, lightly spiced dishes, pizzas and pastas.
SUMMARY: Made using the Çalkarası grape. Make sure you serve properly chilled. You can sample this interesting rosé for £10 to £15 a bottle.
White Sparkling – Altin Kopuk
NOSE: White flower and stone-fruit aromas.
PALATE: Buttery biscuit flavours with soft bubbles and pleasant mineral notes during the finish delivering an elegant sparkling wine experience.
FOOD PAIRING: It can be enjoyed as an aperitif and is a good match with appetizers, shell fish, sushi, sea food risotto, pastas with vegetables, desserts with cream and ice-creams.
SUMMARY: Made using the Emir grape. It is rare to find sparkling wines from Turkey made in the traditional French style. At £12 to £18 a bottle, it can hold its head up high for this style of wine against more recognised producers outside Turkey.
